LISBON - ALFAMA, BAIXA AND BAIRRO ALTO
1º DE MAIO
€ 1º de Maio (213 426 840. Rua da Atalaia, 8. Closed for lunch on Saturdays, and Sundays). This a classical Bairro Alto spot, a cult space within the city. It serves homemade food of very generous portions. Many artists, writers and tourists visit it.
CASA DO LEÃO
€€€ Casa do Leão (218 880 154. Castelo de São Jorge). A Restaurant within the Castle area, with one of the most beautiful views over the city, the river and the South area. It has a wonderful vaulted ceiling made of small bricks, in an elegant, discreet style.
€ Cervejaria Trindade (213 423 506. Rua Nova da Trindade, 20). Established in 1836, this Beer House occupies the old eatery of the Trinos friars convent. It is one of the oldest and most lavish beer houses in Lisbon. With quite reasonable prices, you’ll have a varied choice of seafood, or meats, with chilled beer and a small plate of the very Portuguese tremoços (a variety of lupin). The walls are covered with Art Nouveau tiles, depicting characters that seem to be looking directly at you.
€€ Chez Degroote (213 472 839. Rua dos Duques de Bragança, 4; closed for lunch on Saturdays; closed on Sundays). Right in the middle of Chiado, it has a comfortable, intimate ambience. Its speciality is steaks.
€€€ Farta Brutos (213 426 756. Travessa da Espera, 20; closed on Sundays). One of the best Bairro Alto restaurants, whose specialities show that true Lisbon flavours are in good hands.
€€€ Faz Figura (218 868 981. Rua do Paraíso, 15 B; does not close). Next to the Santa Apolónia train station, it has a very creative take on Portuguese cuisine, presented in a venue with wide windows and a view over the river.
€€€ Pap’Açorda (213 464 811. Rua da Atalaia, 57; closed on Sundays and Mondays). One of the very best restaurants in Lisbon. Their açorda (bread porridge) is amazing, but there are additional savoury items on the menu. In the end, forget about dieting: their chocolate mousse is stuff of legend.
€ Pois Café (218 862 497. Rua S. João da Praça, 93; Closed on Mondays). This space was born from the amusement that their Austrian owners found in the Portuguese word “pois” (as in “right” or “I see”), which is used all the time. There are not many remains from the old spice warehouse it used to be, except for the huge ceiling sustained by three stone arches. This is a perfect place for light meals, or for you to take a break.
SOLAR DOS PRESUNTOS
€€€ Solar dos Presuntos (213 424 253. Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, 150; closed on Sundays and public holidays). A restaurant of impeccable taste, in which one may taste the very best from Minho’s gastronomy.
€€ Sul (213 462 449. Rua do Norte, 13; closed on Mondays). Its decoration is very original with its old tiles on the wall, which complements a new ambience of light green wooden walls and modern lampshades, creating a very nice and cosy ambience. Do not miss their wonderful steaks and, for dessert, their excellent tiramisu.
€ Velho Macedo (218 873 003. Rua da Madalena, 117). It used to be a milk distribution house, and it kept the old name. The main room is homely, with marble walls. The menu reveals its Northern Portugal origins.
€€€ Via Graça (218 870 830. R Damasceno Monteiro, 9B; closed on Saturdays and closed for lunch on Sundays). Its magnificent view over Lisbon’s landscape, with its seven hills, the Tagus, the castle in the background, is the perfect setting to taste a brill with fine herbs and a açorda de coentros (bread porridge with coriander).